I'll be honest—after three days of fighting for space with selfie sticks at Angkor Wat, I was ready to write off Cambodia entirely. Everyone had warned me about the crowds, but nothing prepares you for the reality of trying to experience something sacred while dodging tour groups and Instagram photographers. Then my tuk-tuk driver, Sophea, mentioned a lesser-known temple complex that most visitors skip.

"Not as famous," he shrugged. "More walking. Tourists don't like walking."

Perfect. I grabbed my camera and headed out, expecting nothing more than some decent photos and maybe a fresh angle on Cambodia's temple scene.

Beyond the Postcard Shots

The path to Banteay Srei winds through actual jungle—not the manicured tourist version, but the real deal where roots crack ancient stones and humidity hits you like a wall. I was already questioning my choice when I saw them: a couple moving slowly up the temple steps, completely absorbed in the place rather than performing for social media.